Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and tourists equally swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of over 400 metropolises across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The recognition "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city arrives as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are actually assessed by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates seasonal produce but also gives the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children do not want to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people around the world to learn these tales and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
